Last Christmas, I spent a few days in the South of France with my family. We started in Marseille, where my mother was born and where she grew up, then made our way to Gould to spend the holidays with my uncle Philippe who lives there with his family. Afterwards, we made our way to Nice, on the French Riveria. France's fifth largest city gets a pretty bad rep. It's like the Florida of France, where grandparents retire (my grandmother herself considered moving there for a while) and older Brits winter. It's no Cannes and it's no Monaco. But it's got a lot to offer: stunning Art Deco architecture, great museums (Chagall and Matisse both used to call Nice their home), the promenade des ...